St Nonna of Altarnun - The Cathedral of the Moor

This quite stunning and tranquil church standing in Altarnun (a later corruption of Altarnon), is aptly called "the Cathedral of the Moors" - as with Cathedral splendour it holds forth, having a tower rising 109ft - and an achingly beautiful interior constructed partly of moor stone with wagon roofs above its aisles and porches.

Named for St Nonna - the 6th Century Celtic missionary - and the mother of St David; the church was founded in the 6th Century. It was rebuilt twice, firstly by the Normans in the 12th Century, and then again in the 15th Century. A lightening strike in the 18th Century required the tower and west wall to be restored.

Nothing remains of the first church except perhaps the Celtic cross sentinel at the entrance to the churchyard. Very little remains of the Norman building either, apart from some stonework incorporated in the base of a pillar, and the striking painted square Norman font, carved with faces at each of its corners, and serpents and a radial pattern along its sides. The wooden wagon roofs were installed during the 15th Century rebuild.

The church has only a single stained glass window, a depiction of St Nonna herself, which adorns the top section of the central window behind the alter. This window faces east, as would the priest when facing the altar.

This humble decoration is accompanied more showily by the intricately carved wooden bench ends - carved by Robart Daye between 1510 and 1530 - whose signature and perhaps self portrait(?) is carved into the bench end closest to the Norman font - regretfully I have lost this image! The carvings themselves contain images of both Christian, pagan, heraldic and local interest. A modern carving of the church dating from Ca. 1970's by Mr Doug Edwards - can be found carved on the back of a bench towards the altar.

Sadly, in complete contrast to the quiet beauty and sublime detail of the "Cathedral" itself, is the Holy Well of St Nonna - situated just to the north of the church and below the vicarage. A Holy Well once reputed to cure the ailments of those suffering from mental illness.

However, we were very disappointed to find this well suffering from its own ill state of health and condition. The part broken iron-wrought gate at its entrance ironically forewarning a Holy Hell(?). The steps leading down to the holy water vegetated and neglected, the water itself a mired puddle with an overgrown recess (perhaps to hold an icon? the source of its spring?) - badly in need of loving care and restoration.

Bibliography

"St Nonna of Alternon"; date unknown; author unknown: a contemporary church guide, based partly on a previous guide by Rev. William Arnold Kneebone (Parish Vicar 1936 - 1967.)

This guide is available at St Nonna of Altarnun.

"The Medieval Bench Ends at St Nonna's Altarnun - A Pictorial Guide"; date unknown; Brian Stalley and John Woods, Photographs by Mr A.P. Thompson. Alternun Parish Church; Published by Tre Pol Pen.

This guide is available at St Nonna of Altarnun

"Altarnun" [Online]; Cornwall Guide; 2014 available at www.cornwalls.co.uk/Altarnun/

The Hurlers at Minions, and other local monuments

The Hurlers

The Pipers

Stowe's Hill cairns

stone circle Craddock Moor



The Longstone Cross

Whilst following a quarry track en route to the Craddock Moor stone circle, I inadvertently flushed a short-eared owl (Asio flammeus) from roost. As soon as the bird was airborne it was persistently harried by a pair of raven (Corvus corax) until it was forced from view over the edge of the Cheeswring quarry.

Leskernick stone circles and stone row; and that flock of plover again?

Heading out towards Leskernick Hill along the minor road to Westmoorgate, we were caught up in a torrential downpour, which quickly turned to numbing hail pouring in from the west. The hail stopped us in our tracks, and we turned our backs towards it, taking cover behind a low stone wall.

When the hail stopped we continued through the Westmoorgate and followed the sunken moorland track out on to the open moor, picking up a small stone-made track that headed to Leskernick Farm. As we drew closer to the hill we disturbed a large flock of golden plover (Pluvialis apricaria) foraging trackside - 200-300 hundred birds who rose as one, circled about us momentarily before flying south over Hendra Downs. Given our close proximity to Rough Tor and Brown Willy we couldn't help but wonder if this was the same flock that we had flushed the day previously?

Leskernick Hill contains a large Bronze Age settlement, and adjacent to it a ritual alignment of two stone circles, cairns and a single stone row (Online: Cornwall's Archaeological Heritage 2009) - the latter only one of eight stone rows currently known to Bodmin (Herring P. and Rose P. 2001).

on to the Moor, from Westmoorgate

flock of golden plover, trackside

Having found the first stone circle, with its distinctive central whale back stone, we then struggled to find the nearest end of the stone row. Fishing around in the general area of a small group of what I believed were placed stones. I quickly became frustrated, and decided to follow a hunch headed east across the tinner's stream, and returned to a single stone setting I had accidentally stumbled upon earlier. arely any of this stone was visible, being all but buried in the peat. Assuming this to be part of the row, I then quickly found another stone, and then a third in alignment to them both.

In the meantime, Alison applying the scientific methodology, followed a compass bearing from the stone circle and found a further stone placed on the western side of the tinner's stream. Walking back towards her, I was then able to identify at least seven (probably eight) of the stone placements in the stone row all of which were almost entirely concealed in the ground. This felt like an achievement until a later reading of the Access to Monuments website suggested that there were actually 27 stones up for grabs! The website also suggested strongly that my "placed stones" - were probably part of a cairn that was set within the alignment of the two stone circles. So I guess its all about the research!

stone circle immediately below Leskernick settlement



whale back central stone

Moving on from the stone row we took another bearing, heading south and east - and successfully found the second stone circle.

stone row (partial details)

stone circle (panorama in changing light)

Bibliography

Access to Monuments - Leskernick Hill. [Online], Cornwall's Archaeological Heritage, 2009

Available at:

http://www.historic-cornwall.org.uk/a2m/bronze_age/hc_settlement/leskernick/leskernick.htm

Herring, P. & Rose, P. 2001, Bodmin Moor's Archaeological Heritage, Cornwall Archaeological Unit, Cornwall County Council

Rough Tor, Brown Willy and the Fernacre, Louden Hill, and Stannon stone circles, Bodmin Moor

Bagging Brown Willy the highest summit in Cornwall (standing at 1,378ft, 420m) has been a long overdue event in the history of our Cornish peregrinations - and one we had first discussed undertaking some 20yrs earlier whilst sipping a pint or several of "Brown Willy" at the Min Pin Inn (Tintagel), which if my dulled memory remains correct - was also the micro-brewery producing the afore-mentioned ale? The pub itself named after the owners/landlords fondness for miniature pinschers.

And so now, on one of the few relatively dry days of our October week in Bodmin - we set out via the National Trust car park to the west of Rough Tor - up the slope, past the footprints of ancient settlements, first to Showery Tor and then on to the splendid summit of Rough Tor with its weather sculpted rocks.

On the western approaches we flushed a flock of Ca. 250 - 300 golden plover (Pluvialis fulva) - almost invisible on the ground in their post breeding plumage, until flight taken. Whereupon they flew south and east out of sight, and perhaps became the flock that we also encountered at Westmoorgate the following day? Their plaintive plue call - a soft addition to the otherwise soundscape of harsh raven call from the tor summits.

A handful of swallow (Hirundo rustica) and two red admiral (Vanessa atalanta) passed us flying strongly south, whilst numerous meadow pipit's and a single wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe) moved about us on the open moor.

Rough Tor - weather sculpted rock formations

Brown Willy from Showery Tor

The war memorial on Rough Tor - in the presumed foot print
of the Medieval Church ruin?

On the summit of Brown Willy - finally!

Leaving Rough Tor - we quickly followed the tracks to the top of Brown Willy, secured the camera to the wind blown trig point with a handy karabiner, and took the all important summit shot to capture the moment for posterity.

From Brown Willy summit we headed down hill west and south to meet with Fernacre stone circle situated on the moor below the southern flanks of Rough Tor, and its Neolithic and medieval field systems.

Fernacre is one of three large stone circles set close together within the immediate vicinity of Rough Tor - and which are associated with a wealth of Neolithic and early Bronze Age settlements around them.

We have previously visited Fernacre (and Rough Tor) in September 2014 see:

http://awalkamongstthestones.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/fernacre-stone-circle-rough-tor-bodmin.html 

At that time we only had a short afternoon to explore the sites, and did not look for the Louden Hill or Stannon stone circles.

Fernacre stone circle - reprise 2014

On this visit we had given ourselves plenty of time to roam, so following the farm track south west we eventually came upon the Louden Hill stone circle. I say eventually - because although the two circles are only about 1km apart, Louden Hill was far less obvious in the landscape, comprising of mainly very low stones, with only a handful striking any real pose against the skyline.

Expecting the same of Stannon stone circle - we set a compass bearing and headed out over open moor - only to fall about laughing having walked for minutes, when the circle appeared mightily in the distance against the backdrop of the disused quarry. Stannon is an impressive stone circle setting!

Louden Hill stone circle - panorama

the most prominent stone on the south of the monument
 (Louden Hill)

north western stones (Louden Hill)

Stannon stone circle - panorama

Stannon stone circle detail

Louden Hill settlement (remains) above -
medieval long house remains below

Fernacre stone circle, Rough Tor, Bodmin Moor

Set within the moorland immediately south of Rough Tor, Fernacre stone circle enjoys the opportunity of being easily overlooked - allowing for an appreciation of both its scale and shape within the landscape. Fernacre has been dated to late Neolithic / early Bronze Age - and lies close to the similarly dated stone circles of Stannon and Louden Hill.

Rough Tor itself contains evidence of Neolithic field systems, whilst on its lower slopes the remains of Bronze Age settlements and field systems can be found, the latter partially overlaid with medieval field systems. The summit itself once held a medieval chapel, testament to a continuing spiritual / ceremonial association with the landscape down through millennia.

Fernacre from the flanks of Rough Tor

Fernacre towards Rough Tor

Fernacre looking east