Friday, 29 March 2019

.. "in the windmills of your mind" ..

"Like a circle in a spiral, like a wheel within a wheel
Never ending or beginning on an ever spinning reel
As the images unwind, like the circles that you find
in the windmills of your mind"

Noel Harrison, Alan Bergman and Marilyn Bergman 1967

The most obvious historical feature that presents itself when climbing up Halnaker Hill is the windmill, Halnaker Windmill - it's recently restored red-tiled facade, brilliant white sweeps and beehive cap - all shiny and new against the skyline.

Halnaker Windmill

The current windmill dates to the 1700's (Historic England 2019 [1]) - and replaces an earlier windmill built Ca. 1540 - the remains of which are visible to the south east of the newest building. The earlier being identified by a raised circular embankment with a deep central depression (Historic England 2019 [2])

Remains of 1540 windmill (circular embankment with central depression)

Halnaker Hill is a chalk spur jutting out from the South Downs to the north, rising up from the coastal plain to the south. As such it provides an opportunity for 360deg panoramic views of the landscape surrounding it. To the north and west lie The Trundle and the Goodwood Estate. To the south and west one can cast an eye over Chichester Cathedral then beyond to both Chichester and Langstone Harbours - on a clear day the sunlight can be seen gleaming off the Spinnaker Tower in Portsmouth and the white cliffs of the Isle Of Wight. To the south and east the Rampion off-shore wind farm demands your attention.

However, to view only the windmill(s) and surrounding landscape - is to miss a much deeper history which inhabits the landscape, with archaeology spanning from the Neolithic to the thoroughly modern setting of WWII structures which can be seen across the wider hill top.

Before arriving at the top of the hill you have already followed an ancient way. The line of Stane Street, Roman Road - passes along the southern foot of the hill. The A285 partly follows this road - but at Mill Lane the "old" road in turn becomes a tree lined holloway. This sunken lane is worth a visit in it's own right - particularly when autumn colours adorn the trees.

Mill Lane - holloway following the line of Stane Street

The lane provides both shelter and forage for a variety of common birds, incl. tits and winter thrushes. In spring and summer several warbler species and goldcrest (Regulus regulus) can be heard adding their song to the soundscape, in recent years this chorus has also included the firecrest (Regulus ignicapillus) (pers. obs.).

As you leave Mill Lane and turn north up the hill - you walk through an agricultural landscape of wide open arable fields and decrepit hedgerows providing cover for farmland birds such as linnet (Carduelis cannabina), yellowhammer (Emberiza citrinella) and skylark (Alauda arvensis) - joined in the winter by stonechat (Saxicola rubicola) and the occasional reed bunting (Emberiza schoeniclus). During spring and autumn migration you may be lucky enough to espy a wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe) or whinchat (Saxicola rubetra) on passage (pers. obs.).

The gated entrance to the windmill stands in an opening between two banks - and these banks form part of the Halnaker Hill, Neolithic causewayed enclosure. This Neolithic ditch and bank earthwork encloses 2ha of the top of the hill (Historic England 2019 [2]). The southern part of the enclosure covering an area of approx 0.8ha is within Local Authority ownership and accessible to the public (West Sussex County Council 2019). The rest of the site is in private ownership.

Restricted access aside - it is the southern half of the site which boasts the most visible section of the earthworks - on its southern and south western side. The enclosure having been much flattened by modern ploughing (Historic England 2019 [2]).

Entrance looking south - showing embankment of causewayed enclusure

sweep of embankment (with hedge) looking west from gate

sweep of embankment (with hedge) looking east from gate


two views of the western embankment looking north west & north

Towards the south eastern side of the monument can be found an octagonal red-brick structure - which is open to the air - within the structure is a concrete footing.

This building dates from WWII and would have originally held a radio-direction finding system. The system was used to listen for and triangulate the direction of incoming enemy aeroplanes;  the red brick structure being one of three similar buildings to be found on Halnaker Hill (Butler, C. 2008). This recent understanding of the WWII structures post dates the original Historic England (ibid) scheduling which lists them as "searchlight emplacements".



WWII radio-direction finding structure (Remains of)

I recently saw a photograph of the WWII radio-direction finding installation on the Sussex Mills Group - Facebook page - the picture shows a wooden structure built within the red-brick walls - and to an untrained eye it would appear that the structures may have been constructed to deliberately camouflage the antenna to resemble windmills?

Facebook - Sussex Mills Group - Halnaker Windmill WWII archaeology

To the north east of the windmill - and discernible only after the grassland is cut in the autumn - is the remnant of a dew pond, dated to the 18th or 19th Century (Historic England [2] ibid) - a shallow hollow, which becomes quickly obscured as the spring grassland growth takes hold.

dew pond (Remains of)

The chalk grassland on the West Sussex County Council owned site, is managed for wildflowers and bio-diversity (West Sussex County Council ibid). I have been involved with the wildlife monitoring on this site for a few years now, and would recommend a late spring visit for the show of cowslips (Primula veris), and as the summer progresses for the small collection of orchid species whose numbers have increased year on year (pers. obs.).

Common knapweed (Centaurea nigra) is a dominant flower within the grassland and it, along with the diversity of other wildflowers and grasses attracts a variety of butterflies and moths. I have personally recorded 19 species of butterfly using the grassland incl. marbled white (Melanargia galathe), small copper (Lycaena phlaeas), common blue (Polyommatus icarus) and large skipper (Ochlodes sylvanus). Only one butterfly species - the dark-green fritillary (Argynnis aglaja) has been noted on a single occasion only, the rest occurring almost annually (pers. obs.).

For such a small site - Halnaker Windmill is blessed with features to suit a diversity of interests with the archaeological remains, landscape experience, wildflowers, invertebrates and biodiversity. Needing just a short healthy walk up the hill in order to appreciate it. An all year round site to visit.

Bibliography

Butler, C. (2008) West Sussex Under Attack: Anti Invasion Sites 1500 -1990 The History Press, United Kingdom

Historic England (2019) [1] [Online] Halnaker Windmill Available at:  https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1026409 Accessed 5th February 2019

Historic England (2019) [2] [Online] Causewayed enclosure, World War II searchlight emplacements and associated remains on Halnaker Hill Available at: https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1020514 Accessed 5th February 2019

West Sussex County Council (2019) [Online] Halnaker Windmill Available at: https://www.westsussex.gov.uk/leisure-recreation-and-community/places-to-visit-and-explore/halnaker-windmill/ Accessed 5th February 2019

Friday, 8 February 2019

.. the long voyage to Vikingskipshuset, Oslo ..

light show detail, Vikingskipshuset Oslo


"I see a dark sail on the horizon
Set under a black cloud that hides the sun.
Bring me my broadsword and clear understanding.
Bring me my cross of gold as a talisman.."

from Broadsword by Jethro Tull

light show detail, Vikingskipshuset Oslo


"The hardy Norseman's house of yore
Was on the foaming wave!
And there he gathered bright renown,
The bravest of the brave.
Oh! ne'er should we forget our sires,
Wherever we may be;
They bravely won a gallant name,
And rul'd the stormy sea.

What tho our pow'r be weaker now
Than it was wont to be,
When boldly forth our fathers sail'd,
And conquer'd Normandie!
We still may sing their deeds of fame,
In thrilling harmony;
For they did win a gallant name
And rul'd the stormy sea."

The Hardy Norseman, Norse Traditional

The seeds of our journey to Oslo, were planted in London in 2014 - when we attended the exhibition Vikings: Life and Legend at The British Museum. The preserved hull of the Roskilde 6 skeid being the finale of the show, along with a personal highlight of seeing the Lewis Chessman.

Travelling to Shetland in May 2016 we encountered more Viking artefacts and archaeology in situ. - amongst others at the mind-blowing Jarlshof Museum on Mainland; and the Viking longhouse at Hamar, Unst.

En route to the latter site, we inadvertently flushed a common crane (Grus grus) from Ca. 20m away - it had been hidden in a small fold of the slope, and probably feeding which had reduced its presence even further in such a bare landscape. Needless to say it gave crippling views as it circled to gain height before heading east then south over the coastline.

(Rems.) 9th Century Viking long house, Jarlshof - May 2016


(Rems.) Viking longhouse, Hamar, Unst - May 2016

At Haroldswick, Unst we visited the Unst Boat Haven - a very lovely and laid back museum - which charts the history of Shetland boats including the clinker built styles of the Ness Yoal, and the Shetland Sixareen - the latter a small fishing boat whose origins are thought to date to the 9th Century viking period (citing Unst Boat Haven interpretation panel).



exhibits at Unst Boat Haven - May 2016

The Viking Unst Project located just a short stroll away from the boat museum, comprises a reconstructed Viking longhouse - itself based on the excavation of the nearby Hamar longhouse.

It's an impressive building and displays some fine workmanship in the woodworking - although at the time of the visit we didn't realise that the timber frame joints were cut in such a way that they did not require nails as part of the construction.



Viking Unst Project - replica longhouse - May 2016

Alongside the longhouse is a stunning exhibit - the Skipbaldner - a full size modern replica of the Gokstad ship - the original being a viking ship burial excavated in 1880 by Nicolay Nicolayson - and which sits as one of the star attractions in the Vikingskipshuset, Oslo.

The Skipbaldner was built and sailed from Norway to Shetland on an ill-fated and fore-shortened voyage, which according to local gossip - ended due to either sickness or a falling out amongst the crew Or perhaps both?

Accepting the open invitation to explore the boat we climbed aboard and spent a happy time in the company of this fine ship.



the Skipbaldner - Haraldswick, Unst - May 2016

It was some two years after the Shetland adventure, and our dear friends M & A were abroad in Oslo. Knowing our interest in this period of European history, they were kind enough to send us some evocative photos of the Oseberg ship which dominates the B gallery at the Vikingskipshuset.

Oseberg ship detail, Vikingskipshuset (courtesy M & A - Sept 2018) 

By the time we met up with M & A over dinner, we had already decided to prioritise a trip to Oslo, to visit the museum. A pleasant evening was spent listening to both their travel tales as well as quizzing them on logistics to help us plan our own trip.

So the following February we find ourselves standing in the snow, outside the Vikingskipshuset - waiting for it to open, in excited anticipation. A few other tourist couples arrived and we exchanged greetings, and waited together, in an disorderly unqueue.

Vikingskipshuset, Feb 2019

As the museum doors opened - there was a mutual acknowledgement for us to enter first. It is a generous act, as it meant that we two alone got to spend some private time, albeit brief, with the Oseberg ship - before other visitors began to fill the gallery.





alone with the Oseberg ship, Feb 2019 

The Oseberg ship was part of a rich and elaborate burial for two, clearly important women, whose bodies were interred upon a bed within it - the burial dating to 840AD. A detailed and informative description of the burial is located here on the University of Oslo website at:

University of Oslo: Museum of Cultural History - The Oseberg Ship


the Gokstad ship, Feb 2019

The Gokstad ship felt a little more familiar to us - due to our Shetland experience. However, it did nothing to lessen the awe felt at seeing the original boat in its full splendour. Note that unlike the Oseberg ship - the Gokstad has two additional strakes above the oar-holes - the museum interpretation noting that this indicated that the boat had probably been a working sea-going vessel prior to its burial along with the inhumed Norse man - for whom it honoured.

University of Oslo: Museum of Cultural History - The Gokstad Grave

Song lyrics

Ian Scott Anderson (1982) Broadsword from the album Broadsword and the Beast by Jethro Tull, Available at: any good music store!

Norse Traditional (19th Century) The Hardy Norseman song lyrics & historical details can be found ONLINE at: Odin's Gift, Norse Mythology and Asatru Poetry and Music, Available at: Odin's Gift, The Hardy Norseman Accessed 6th February 2020

References

Fojut, N., (1993) A Guide to Prehistoric and Viking Shetland Shetland Times Press ltd., Lerwick, Shetland

Historic Scotland (2011) Jarlshof Official Souvenir Guide Historic Scotland

Shetland Amenity Trust (2020) [Online] Viking Unst Available at: Shetland Amenity Trust, Viking Unst Accessed 25th January 2020

Sjovold, T., (2016) The Viking Ships in Oslo Universitetets Oldsaksamling, Oslo (1985)

The British Museum (2014) Eds: Williams, G., Pentz, P. & Wemhoff, M., Vikings life and legend The British Museum Press, London

Turner, V., (1998) Ancient Shetland B.T. Batsford Ltd / Historic Scotland, London