It had been a long day - the late morning changeover of VW Campervans at Roseview Caravan Park near Oban had stressed us out more than a little (a long story in itself).
However, we were still in time for the Oban / Castlebay Ferry and enjoyed a tranquil crossing albeit bereft of any notable wildlife sightings - a single Bonxie (Stercorarius skua) the highlight, until our arrival at Castlebay where-upon a whooper swan (Cygnus cygnus) was seen flying ahead of the ferry to land in the harbour behind Kisimul Castle.
A short drive later and we rocked up at Borve Camping and Caravan Site, received both the warmest of welcomes, and a cracking pitch overlooking the rocky foreshore, due west towards the sunset.
Heeding the sage advice of the campsite owner, I immediately rang the local pizza outlet: Joan's Pizza Barra ordered a bespoke pizza for delivery to pitch #8, and graciously accepted that a side order of garlic bread was not on the menu.
With the evening meal secured, we set about the #VanLife in earnest - washed down the flatpack table, erected the camping chairs; cracked open the Talisker, wine and accompanying beers - and Relax.
Half an hour later Joan herself arrived on site - with multiple pizza orders for the campsite at large - and our pizza order including a complimentary! flatbread garlic bread, which Joan had rustled-up in kind response to my earlier request. The pizza was superb and the garlic bread something else! At time of writing it's great to see that Joan has now added both garlic bread and garlic bread & cheese to her regular menu. You can thank us .. no hang on .. you can thank Joan for that!
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| #VanLife |
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| Joan's Pizza, Barra - Joan not shown |
The evening's entertainment was not limited to the consumption of pizza and garlic bread. "A" had chosen the campsite not just because it was in quick reach from the ferry, but also because Borve's headland held some standing stones, and a ruined chapel. So as the sun sank lower beyond the Atlantic skyline, we walked out from the campsite the short way to the stones.
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| Standing stones, Borve, Barra |
We knew nothing about the standing stones, other than they were a feature on the OS Map. Our #VanLife travel guide consisted of "The Outer Hebrides and their Legends" by Otte F. Swires (1966), and this did not refer to the stones in its brief mention of Borve.
After the stones we made our way to the little churchyard on the headland, within which the remains of a small chapel can be found.
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| Chapel rems. and graveyard |
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| the travel guide |
Birdwatching:
Oban - Castlebay
Black guillemot
Fulmar
Herring gull
Buzzard
Great skua
Great northern diver
Razorbill
Gannet
Golden Eagle (Sound of Mull)
Kittiwake
Arctic tern
Whooper swan
Borve
Oystercatcher
Dunlin
Fulmar
Lapwing
Pied wagtail
Black guillemot
Turnstone
Gannet
Common gull
Meadow pipit
Addendum
Shortly after our return from the Outer Hebrides, I received my pre-ordered copy of "The Outer Hebrides, A Historical Guide" by Mary MacLeod Rivett (2021) - the reading of the description of the stones remains ambiguous: the first reference states "It is not entirely clear whether these were Neolithic stones, or whether they marked the location of a Viking Age burial which is said to have been found here .." Qualifying further that in the Viking age, prehistoric sites were sometimes re-used by the new wave of Scandinavian settlers (p. 29). Later in the Gazetteer, it refers to the stones as Neolithic, with local tradition associating them with a Viking grave (p. 139).
The discussion of the Viking grave found at Borve, Barra can be explored further at:
Addendum
Shortly after our return from the Outer Hebrides, I received my pre-ordered copy of "The Outer Hebrides, A Historical Guide" by Mary MacLeod Rivett (2021) - the reading of the description of the stones remains ambiguous: the first reference states "It is not entirely clear whether these were Neolithic stones, or whether they marked the location of a Viking Age burial which is said to have been found here .." Qualifying further that in the Viking age, prehistoric sites were sometimes re-used by the new wave of Scandinavian settlers (p. 29). Later in the Gazetteer, it refers to the stones as Neolithic, with local tradition associating them with a Viking grave (p. 139).
The discussion of the Viking grave found at Borve, Barra can be explored further at:
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