the Outer Hebrides Road Trip pt. 8 .. a day in transit to the Isle of Lewis ..

This morning we left Moorcroft Campsite for the last time, starting our journey north to the final campsite of our road trip: Eilean Na Froach on the Isle of Lewis.

Stopping on the Committee Road, we had the best two hours of birdwatching since the excitement of the Red-necked Phalarope day!

We observed Short-eared Owl, Buzzard, Kestrel, a dark phase Arctic Skua, Common Gull, Great Black-backed Gull, Meadow Pipit and Raven. The "shortie" was visible for the entire visit as it hunted over the distant muddy brown, and beige tussocks of Heather and Molinia. A pair of Golden Eagles launched themselves from the hillside behind us, following the line of the hilltop back and forth for a short while, before disappearing over its crest.

As we prepared to leave, I got onto a male Hen Harrier sitting out on the edge of a woodland block. It showed briefly, but long enough to allow A to get onto it as well. Then a Cuckoo called, and I found it in a tree. The only Cuckoo to reveal itself so far this holiday.

At RSPB Balranald we heard several Corncrake calling from the small iris beds and rank grassland around the Reserve’s farm buildings. Walking through the machair to the shoreline, we discovered floral treats along the way. The machair was only just beginning to bloom, and it was a reminder that if we wanted to experience this habitat in its full glory - we would have to push back our annual May travels into mid-June at the very least.

Machair and wildflowers
RSPB Balranald, North Uist

The wait at the ferry terminal, and the ferry crossing itself yielded: Little, Common, and Arctic tTrn; Gannet, Cormorant, Guillemot, and Black Guillemot; Hooded Crow, Common Gull, Goldeneye, Great Northern Diver and Bonxie. Confined to the car for the sea crossing, we had limited views, so I was pleased with the meagre haul.

Berneray Ferry Port

restricted views on the Ferry Crossing 

Later driving through Shawbost I noticed a solitary whooper swan, afloat on a small loch.

We arrived safely at Eileen Na Froach around 9PM some 12 hours after leaving the campsite on North Uist, having travelled a total of 91 miles by road in just over 3hrs, and a single hour's ferry ride across the Sound of Harris. We are both absolutley shattered and over-stimulated.

From the van, we can hear the harsh "Crex Crex" of the Corncrake calling in the fields about us - at least three individuals by my reckoning? The continuous drumming of snipe adds a rhythmic dance to the soundscape. Talisker and Barra Gin takes the edge off our respective exhaustions.

Tomorrow we will make a pilgrimage to Calanais, and it's Acolytes. A day of stones. I am so excited. Slainte m'hath!

Slainte m'hath!