A walk amongst the stones: the Outer Hebrides Road Trip pt. 5 .. a redneck agenda

High on the list of target species for this island tour is the red-necked phalarope - one of the UK's rarest breeding birds, and a Red List Species of Conservation Concern (RSPB). We have visited a breeding site for this stunning little wader on a previous Scottish Islands tour - and frustratingly dipped on the day; despite knowing that birds were present on the site, they simply failed to show whilst we were at the reserve.

The red-necked phalarope holds a special place in my heart, as a gateway species to the joy of birdwatching. We first encountered it on our virgin trip to Iceland. We were driving from Borganes to Stykkishólmur. Crossing the Snæfellsjökull peninsula we took a scenic lunch stop over-looking a lake below. I strode out onto the lichen heath with the intention of reaching the waters edge. Fifty meters or so into my walk, A called out to me to stop and look to my left. When I turned to look, I saw only meters away from me a red-necked phalarope, walking away and dragging one of its wings to the ground.

I realised that I had inadvertently invaded the breeding ground of the bird and was at risk of trampling either its eggs or young. I carefully retraced my steps, placing my feet within the footprints of my outward journey. It was a mistake, and a valuable lesson learnt. Thankfully, no damage done.

Later in the tour, we saw phalaropes, spinning in their feeding circles on the surface of Lake Myvatn. A site which also granted us stunning views of Great Northern Diver, and Red-throated Diver amongst the large breeding population of waterbirds and waterfowl. Gripping.

Waking from our first night on a windblast Benbecula we were unsure as to whether birdwatching was contra-indicated given the extreme blow of the conditions? However, with local knowledge, I was more than keen to have a first look for red-necked phalarope, especially as we could use the Van as a hide and keep out of the wind.

Stopping roadside, we glimpsed the briefest of views as a phalarope stuck its head up above the height of the waving grass, before disappearing almost immediately to view. It was a tick. Golden eagle, merlin, red-breasted merganser and a handful of ducks, gulls, and waders added value, but we soon headed off looking for more excitement.

out of the wind, roadside second breakfast

We drove back to South Uist and followed a road east to Loch Sgioport and parked at the headland to look for eagles and check out the remains of a 19th Century pier. The pier was irrefutably present in its ruination, eagles were noticeably absent. Cuckoo, eleven grey herons; a raven, and a merlin were the only haul.

Loch Sgioport pier rems.

On the way back to Otters Edge Campsite, we pulled in again at the viewpoint for the red-necked phalarope but drew a blank.

evening stake-out

An evening walk along the shoreline added common eider to the bird list.

This morning, after an early wake up, we headed back to the Loch in the hope of getting better views of the phalarope. As we parked up, we or the wind, flushed three small birds from the open water – and as they flew east and away from us, I identified them as red-necked phalarope. Our excitement dimmed as they disappeared across the open moorland.

Fifteen minutes later a female phalarope flew back past us, landed on the water, preened for a short while whilst drifting out of view behind the curve of the Loch. Shortly after a male landed, and then floated out of view too. A second female, landed on the stretch of water in front of us, then went to roost alongside the smallest of islets, which looked to be about a meter or so across. She stayed there for the remaining part of our birdwatch, unmoving.

red-necked phalarope, Benbecula

Our interest remained peaked, when a short-eared owl landed on a rocky outcrop at the edge of the open water, before quartering the moorland behind. In the distant north A spotted a high-flying bird - a white-tailed eagle, which soon became lost in the grey of the sky.

It was time to for us to go north too, heading to Moorcroft Campsite on North Uist. Having successfully located the campsite, we pushed on just slightly further up the A865 to Carinish to visit the remains of Teampull na Trionaid (Trinity Temple). The road to Carinish passes straight through a stone circle, whilst a short way to its north lies a chambered cairn. The short drive provided for me a complete “power-up” no doubt enhanced by the psychedelic outpouring of Cope’s “Upwards at 45 Degrees” as we travelled through the stone circle itself. We were within a sacred landscape, which spanned millennia.