The book’s fictional account of one dark episode in this period made for truly grim, terrifying, and at times uplifting reading: with courage, sisterhood and love countering the overwhelming oppression, psychopathy, violence, and misogyny of the accusers and their deluded lackeys.
In the early part of 2025 – our May holiday plans were finalised, and we looked forward to a cruise “that’s not a cruise!” on the Havila Capella, one of the mail boats sailing the Bergen – Kirkenes – Bergen route. We were heading for the Midnattssol.
We boarded Havila Capella on the 19th of May in Bergen – departing north shortly afterwards.
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| Havila Capella, coming into moorings Bergen |
Crossing into the Arctic Circle Ca. 07:48 on the 22nd we almost missed the moment on deck – because our server was struggling to open the bottle of Champagne, we were sharing with our breakfast companions to toast the event. Our glasses charged we rushed onto deck, just as we drew level with the Arctic Circle Globe situated on Vikingen Island. It was a close thing.
Shortly afterwards, we and our fellow travellers received an invitation to attend the rear deck, to witness and participate in an Arctic Circle hazing. A large barrel of ice stood alone. A server was handing out complimentary glasses of a local spirit.
First the competition winner who had come closest to predicting the exact time of crossing the Arctic Circle, rewarded with the Norwegian Flag which flew at the point of crossing, time stamped and signed by the Captain of the Havila Capella. It was a stunning prize, and one which I missed out, on by around eighteen seconds.
Then as one we invoked Njǫrd, the Norse god of the sea and wind, three times, before a mystical figure appeared in fake beard and fancy pirate costume. He blew his ram’s horn as the ship’s horn sounded.
Willing travellers then had a ladle of ice from the barrel, poured down the back of their neck, finally two crew members also crossing the Arctic Circle for the first time had between them the entire barrel lifted and poured over their heads. We spoke to one of them much later in the day who confessed he only had one pair of shoes on board, and they remained waterlogged from the fun.
We enjoyed our first Midnattssol at 00:00 23rd May.
And then onward, arriving in Kirkenes this morning having passed Vardø in the night. It is Sunday and we had time to disembark and explore, following signs to the sentrum we discovered it closed, as were the air-raid shelters which offered historic tours.
A monument to the Russian liberation of Finnmark stood atop the small hill under which was the air raid shelter, wreaths lay at its feet. Road-side a small van painted with the colours of the Ukrainian flag, and the slogans “Stop War, Stop Putin” a thought-provoking reminder of the privilege and peace we enjoyed, against the realities of another country’s sufferings.
Arriving at Vardø we only had around 45 minutes ashore. Reliably informed that the Steilneset Memorial was a brisk 15-minute walk across the island, we and our newfound Australian friends legged it through the town, ignoring Vardøhus Fortress the seat of the trials and torture – as we passed.
Our breathes finally caught at the sight of the memorial, and we slowed down to take in as much of the ambience and symbolism of the site as we could, with only 15 minutes to spare.
No time to read of and acknowledge the individual dead, 91 of whom were sentenced to death in fire at the stake - as a result of accusations of witchcraft levelled against them – to which many of them subsequently confessed under torture and duress, or by the cruel and unjust testing of the water ordeal.
Karen Olsdatter "confessed to" and convicted of practice of witchcraft 8th April 1663. Sentenced to death in fire at the stake.
Birgitte Olufsdatter "confessed to" and convicted of practice of witchcraft 8th April 1663.Sentenced to death in fire at the stake.
Returning to the harbour, the laughing cries of the Black-legged Kittiwake colony, helped to lift our subdued spirits.
See also:
Anya Bergman (2023) The Witches of Vardo Manilla Press (UK) Bloomsbury London
Norwegian Public Roads Administration, National Tourist Routes, Veranger Museum IKS (Undated) Steilneset Memorial to the Witches burned in Finnmark Guidebook translated by Katjana Edwardsen
Shortly afterwards, we and our fellow travellers received an invitation to attend the rear deck, to witness and participate in an Arctic Circle hazing. A large barrel of ice stood alone. A server was handing out complimentary glasses of a local spirit.
First the competition winner who had come closest to predicting the exact time of crossing the Arctic Circle, rewarded with the Norwegian Flag which flew at the point of crossing, time stamped and signed by the Captain of the Havila Capella. It was a stunning prize, and one which I missed out, on by around eighteen seconds.
Then as one we invoked Njǫrd, the Norse god of the sea and wind, three times, before a mystical figure appeared in fake beard and fancy pirate costume. He blew his ram’s horn as the ship’s horn sounded.
Willing travellers then had a ladle of ice from the barrel, poured down the back of their neck, finally two crew members also crossing the Arctic Circle for the first time had between them the entire barrel lifted and poured over their heads. We spoke to one of them much later in the day who confessed he only had one pair of shoes on board, and they remained waterlogged from the fun.
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| in an Arctic Haze |
We enjoyed our first Midnattssol at 00:00 23rd May.
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| Midnattssol: May 24th 00.01 |
And then onward, arriving in Kirkenes this morning having passed Vardø in the night. It is Sunday and we had time to disembark and explore, following signs to the sentrum we discovered it closed, as were the air-raid shelters which offered historic tours.
A monument to the Russian liberation of Finnmark stood atop the small hill under which was the air raid shelter, wreaths lay at its feet. Road-side a small van painted with the colours of the Ukrainian flag, and the slogans “Stop War, Stop Putin” a thought-provoking reminder of the privilege and peace we enjoyed, against the realities of another country’s sufferings.
Arriving at Vardø we only had around 45 minutes ashore. Reliably informed that the Steilneset Memorial was a brisk 15-minute walk across the island, we and our newfound Australian friends legged it through the town, ignoring Vardøhus Fortress the seat of the trials and torture – as we passed.
Our breathes finally caught at the sight of the memorial, and we slowed down to take in as much of the ambience and symbolism of the site as we could, with only 15 minutes to spare.
No time to read of and acknowledge the individual dead, 91 of whom were sentenced to death in fire at the stake - as a result of accusations of witchcraft levelled against them – to which many of them subsequently confessed under torture and duress, or by the cruel and unjust testing of the water ordeal.
 |
| Karen Olsdatter |
Karen Olsdatter "confessed to" and convicted of practice of witchcraft 8th April 1663. Sentenced to death in fire at the stake.
Birgitte Olufsdatter "confessed to" and convicted of practice of witchcraft 8th April 1663.Sentenced to death in fire at the stake.
 |
| Vardøhus Fortress the current building, dated to the later period of 1738 |
Returning to the harbour, the laughing cries of the Black-legged Kittiwake colony, helped to lift our subdued spirits.
See also:
Anya Bergman (2023) The Witches of Vardo Manilla Press (UK) Bloomsbury London
Norwegian Public Roads Administration, National Tourist Routes, Veranger Museum IKS (Undated) Steilneset Memorial to the Witches burned in Finnmark Guidebook translated by Katjana Edwardsen
Insight Guides (Undated) Norway
